If your sights are set on Everest-scope mountaineering feats, one of the best ways to get those quads fit and lungs used to sucking low-oxygen air is to make a pilgrimage to Alaska’s Mt Denali (also called McKinley), the highest peak in North America. This trip is not for the mountaineering neophyte. From the Kahiltna base camp, at 7,200 feet, it’s a three-week journey, skiing and climbing upwards over snow and ice. Lung-numbing cold, heavy packs, sunburn, monster crevasses and learning the intricacies of peeing into a bottle are all part of the experience. Denali is a big peak requiring mileage, experience, hard training and education.
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Denali is often considered America's most classic climb. From top to bottom, it rises nearly 18,000', an elevation gain unsurpassed anywhere in the world. At a northern latitude of 63°, it is the most northerly of any big mountain over 20,000'. No other region offers such breathtaking and diverse views each day of the ascent. The panorama from Denali's summit includes Mt. Foraker, Mt. Hunter and Mt. Huntington in all their majestic glory.
Denali National Park and Preserve
World class mountaineering opportunities abound in Denali National Park and Preserve. Climbers from all over the globe come to test their mountaineering and wilderness survival skills, from the high altitude challenges of Mt. McKinley, the continent’s highest peak, to the vertical rock and ice walls that line the Ruth Gorge. All climbers attempting Mt. McKinley (20,320 feet) or Mt. Foraker (17,400 feet) must register with Denali National Park and Preserve. The strictly enforced 60-day pre-registration regulation allows mountaineering rangers to have direct contact with climbers before they arrive in Talkeetna. In doing so, rangers are able to suggest appropriate routes for different levels of expertise and offer first-hand knowledge of conditions encountered in the Alaska Range. Visit the Alaska Geographic Bookstore online or the Alaska Geographic Mountaineering brochure to find the mountaineering and guide books available for Denali as well as literature on high altitude climbing. Contact the Talkeetna Ranger Station with any additional questions. Mailing address is: Talkeetna Ranger Station, PO Box 588, Talkeetna, AK 99676 . Registration and mountaineering ranger staff can be contacted by phone at (907) 733-2231, by fax at (907) 733-1465, or e-mail. More Info: http://www.nps.gov/dena/index.htm
Alpine Ascents International
Alpine Ascents requires its climbers to complete the company's 6-day mountaineering course or be able to demonstrate equivalent experience. Alpine Ascents employs two guides for every six climbers. Alpine Ascents International, Inc. is a leader in the mountain guiding industry and has been instrumental in setting precedent in the international guiding community. Alpine Ascents International leads expeditions that have become benchmarks of quality in the climbing community and operates what we believe is the finest mountaineering school in the country. Alpine Ascents is one of the few outfitters to be fully accredited by the American Mountain Guides Association The AMGA accreditation process generally focuses on instruction and reviews areas such as operating guidelines, permits, business practices and guides training. While mountaineering has inherent risks, route planning, camp selection, student instruction and leadership training start with a concern for the well-being of climbers.
Since the inception of our Denali program, Alpine Ascents has continued its leadership on Denali with extremely high summit success (much of this can be attributed to our outstanding guide staff and 6 person climbing teams) and continued assistance with rescues on the mountain. With strong praise from the National Park and Media (many of our guides have received Denali Pro pin awards from Denali National Park) and an excellent working relationship with other guide services they look to equal success each year. In 2006 Alpine Ascents was awarded a highly coveted guiding concession on Mt. Rainier. This prestigious honor was granted to Alpine Ascents based on 1) Safety Record 2) Environmental Leadership 3) Quality of Services 4) Experience and qualifications of our guide staff. We are honored to have the privilege of guiding such a beautiful peak. They help to ascertain each climber can be a safe team member and allows our guides to galvanize the most effective groups. Alpine Ascents has been named "The Best Mountain Guide Service" by National Geographic Adventure Magazine February 2009.
Alpine Ascents International
109 West Mercer Street, Seattle, WA 98119
Phone: (206) 378-1927, fax: (206) 378-1937
Email: Climb@AlpineAscents.com
Web: http://www.alpineascents.com/
Mountain Trip Alaska
Mountain Trip was born of an Alaskan daydream in 1973 and has evolved into a world class mountain guiding service.For climbers wishing to attempt a less technical, but physically and mentally challenging climb of Denali, we offer two options-- a round trip climb of the West Buttress route or a Traverse climb that ascends the West Buttress and descends to the north via the Muldrow Glacier route. These expeditions are endurance events, not sprints, and last between 16 and 26 days. They pack food to spend up to 22 days on the mountain. With a day on either end for travel between Anchorage and Talkeetna, you need to plan on 24 days in Alaska. Most trips run 16-18 days, but you must plan your itinerary around the longest scenario. 2009 was 34th year leading guided Denali expeditions. They have learned a thing or two about taking care of their climbers over the years and this is reflected in success rates on Denali, in their ability to attract and retain the most experienced guides on the mountain, and in the extremely positive feedback they receive from clients.
Mountain Trip, Cabin 3 Granite Ave, Ophir, CO 81426 (Physical Address)
Mountain Trip, P.O. Box 658, Ophir, CO 81426 (Mailing Address)
Telephone: 866-886-TRIP (8747) OR +1-970-369-1153 from outside the U.S. (-7 hrs GMT)
Fax: +1-303-496-0998
E-Mail: info@mountaintrip.com
Web: http://www.mountaintrip.com/
Alaska Mountaineering School
P.O. Box 566, 3rd Street, Talkeetna, AK 99676
Phone: (907) 733-1016, Fax: (907) 733-1362
E-mail: info@climbalaska.org
www.climbalaska.org
American Alpine Institute
1515 12th Street, Bellingham, WA 98825
Phone: (360) 671-1505, Fax: (360) 734-8890
E-mail: info@aai.cc
www.mtnguide.com
N.O.L.S.
P.O. Box 981, Palmer, AK 99645
Phone: (907) 745-4047, Fax: (907) 745-6069
E-mail: admissions@nols.edu
www.nols.edu
Rainier Mountaineering, Inc.
P.O. Box Q, Ashford, WA 98304
Phone: (888) 892-5462, Fax: (360) 569-2982
E-mail: info@rmiguides.com
www.rmiguides.com