With each paddle stroke the boat slides along and you hear the lap lap lap of the bow cutting through the water. As your body falls into an almost hypnotic rhythm with the rotation of your paddle, you feel like you can go on forever.
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Sea kayaking can be as mellow or as wild as you like. Some people prefer slipping silently through a bayou, while others long for the ocean and breaking waves. Either way, you're spoiled for choices: You can paddle on most any body of water in any part of the world. Some of the most famous sea kayaking destinations include the fjords of southern Alaska, the Sea of Cortez in Mexico, the California coast and spots as far-flung as the Solomon Islands and Greenland. Each destination is unique, with its own scenic personality, wildlife, culture and batch of challenges. Exploring a place by sea kayak also "gives you the chance to drink it all in," says Christopher Cunningham, editor of Sea Kayaker magazine. "Because the vessels are small they allow you to go places larger vessels couldn't."
Following wildlife is what the kayak (which means "hunter's boat" in Inuit) was invented for. Five thousand years ago, Inuit from Greenland to Alaska cruised in sealskin-covered kayaks to hunt whales, walrus, seals and fish. European explorers brought kayak design back home, and by the early twentieth century, German tourists were using a version of it at the seaside. In 1928, Captain Franz Romer made the first transatlantic crossing in a kayak.
The British spearheaded sea kayaking as a sport in the early 1970s, and in the US, it caught on in the Pacific Northwest about ten years later. Today sea kayakers from Honolulu to Dubai use the ancient craft to skirt the shore, checking out hidden coves, empty beaches and sea caves for an ultraclose look at the landscape and wildlife. Depending on the surroundings, it's not uncommon for sea kayakers to be treated to encounters with seabirds and all kinds of marine life, such as whales and dolphins. Paddlers regularly find themselves being followed by curious seals and sea lions.
One of the beauties of sea kayaking is that with just a modicum of paddling skills, you can access isolated locations and slide your elegant craft onto empty beaches. Good paddling technique and understanding of self-rescue maneuvers like the wet exit are indispensable for safely enjoying sea kayaking. A good outfitter will give you the opportunity to try out different boats to find what's most comfortable. Local kayak clubs are also a great way to meet fellow paddlers and log water time.
Whether you choose to go with a professional outfitter or on your own, a typical trip will last three to eight days, with five to six hours spent paddling each day. The average kayaker can cover 10 to 15 miles a day while experienced paddlers may travel 25 to 30 miles.
Outfitters usually chart a course to allow for maximum exploration of an area's highlights, maybe a short hike along the way, and arrival at the next campsite by nightfall. However, sometimes a paddle is cut short or extended to accommodate changing weather conditions or other circumstances.
"In many places, the tides, currents and winds dictate your program," Nitsh says. "The daily itinerary is shaped as much by the weather as by the wishes of the group."
Unlike most whitewater rafting trips, paddlers are expected to help set up and break down camp. Most kayakers carry their own camping gear, so it's important to pack light. (Some outfitters use support boats to carry the equipment and set up camp prior to the paddlers' arrival, although having a motorboat around can take away from the wilderness experience.)
Although sea kayaking is usually a quiet, laid-back way to explore, there are some inherent risks. "One of the most dangerous things about sea kayaking is getting caught by paddling conditions that are beyond your abilities," Cunningham warns. "The main culprit is usually wind. And the thing that gets people in trouble is steep-breaking waves."
Needless to say, weather conditions can be very unpredictable on the water—especially on the open ocean. Within minutes the weather can go from sunny and calm to rainy and windy with a big swell. Dense fog is also a concern in many areas.
Another threat on sea kayaking expeditions is hypothermia, when the body's core temperature drops due to long exposure to wind or cold water. Carry emergency blankets and be familiar with the warning signs of hypothermia, which can start with shivering and goose bumps and build to the inability to perform complex tasks with hands, with numb skin, muscle incoordination, mild confusion, difficulty speaking, irrational behavior and finally unconsciousness.
Before you shove off on an extended paddle, it's a good idea to get your body in condition. Spend as much time in your boat as possible; you should also work on upper-body and core strength exercises. It's also good to work on your flexibility—you'll be spending long periods of time sitting in the boat, so make sure to stretch out your hamstrings.
"It's important to toughen up your hands before a trip so they don't blister," Cunningham says. "Most people get blisters on the inside of the thumb when they first start paddling." Tape your hands before they start to blister. Otherwise, the only way to develop those calluses is to paddle.
Plan your clothing according to the clime. In moderate climates (like New Zealand, the Channel and Galápagos Islands), a dry top and shorts should be adequate, but also bring a wetsuit along for changing conditions. In warmer places, minimal clothing is needed and everything is stowed in the boat or lashed to the deck in dry bags.
Once you get to Greenland or Alaska, however, you can expect to encounter everything from pack ice to bone-chilling winds that come out of nowhere and when you least expect them. At a minimum, bring a top-quality dry suit and a spray skirt to keep the frigid water from dripping off your paddle down into your things.
Most important: a good pair of water shoes. You'll be in and out of the water, and potentially portaging through the bush. 5.10's Nemo (909-798-4222, http://fiveten.com/ , $85) has AquaStealth rubber soles for super traction, as well as an anatomical heel-pad for fit and heel protection while paddling. For warm weather Teva's Spitfire LC (800-367-8382, www.teva.com, $79.95) with Lateral Control (LC) toe piece, heel shank stabilizer and the Universal Strapping System are good, high performance sandals. Expect to find everything from flat to blinding light on the water, so bring a pair of Costa Del Mar Islander sunglasses (800-846-0013, www.costadelmar.com , $159) with polarized, large lenses to watch the waves and whatever might rise from beneath them.
In terms of what to wear, Kokatat (800-225-9749, www.kokatat.com) makes great dry- and wetsuits, and has a reputation for immediately fixing any problems. If you're paddling the deep freeze of Alaska, their Gore-Tex Front Entry Drysuit ($625) with articulated legs and arms for paddling action will keep you warm. The Gore-Tex Wave ($328) with Kokatat's new Evolution Face Fabric for quiet paddling stays dry in a closed cockpit.
Lotus by Patagonia (800-638-6464, www.patagonia.com) has created a brilliantly comfortable new PFD called the Low Rider ($115) designed to fit snugly without riding up around your ears. Kokatat also makes the Outfit Tour PFD ($119) with reflective tape on the front and back to help you get found in open water.
Now comes the big decision: what kind of boat do you want? Plastic or composite (layers of fiberglass, cloth and kevlar)? Criteria for choosing a boat are weight, length and cost, which usually translate to speed, maneuverability, tracking and stability. In the world of sea kayaks, the less you pay the more you get, weightwise that is. Generally speaking, although plastic or polyethylene boats are less expensive ($750-$1,500) and durable, they also are heavier than composite boats. Composite boats are lighter and strong, but they can cost three to four times more than the plastic job you may be contemplating. The level of commitment here is really the question. If you plan to paddle a lot, you'll want to spend more.
If you plan to hug the coastline and do a lot of cove exploration or wave surfing, then a short boat is much more maneuverable, but usually sacrifices some stability. Not only are long boats more stable, but when you are out on the open ocean and looking to cover a lot of ground, they are usually much faster and provide a smoother ride by bridging small waves rather than riding them.
Although 17- to 18-foot boats are designed for covering open water, they are also maneuverable enough to hug the coastline. One expedition-proven cult classic is the 18-foot Nigel Dennis Explorer, available from Great River Outfitters (248-683-4770, www.grokayaks.com, $2,600). Or try Necky Kayaks high-performance, low-profile Arluk 1.8 (604-850-1206, http://www.neckykayaks.com/ , Kevlar $2,895) with a small cockpit that makes it especially seaworthy. Perception's Eclipse, available in plastic or composite, is a maneuverable boat that tracks well and will fit basically everyone. If you're smaller, consider The Perception Kayaks (864-859-7518, http://www.perceptionkayaks.com/ , composite: $2,599.99).
When choosing paddles, Werner's Molokai (800-275-3311, http://www.wernerpaddles.com/ ) paddles are good for strong serious paddlers. The Camano is better for the more casual paddler. Snap Dragon Designs neoprene SupraTex spray skirt (425-957-3575, http://snapdragondesign.com/, $80) is rapidly becoming a standard for paddlers because of its versatility and sealing. Whenever you are getting a spray skirt make sure that you are getting the right size and model for your boat by consulting the skirt manufacturer's fit chart.
Keep your gear dry with a built-in purge and frame or mount option, the Ultimate Tripper dry bag from Knudson Integrated Portage Systems, (888-727-8857, www.knupac.com, $249.95) with 7,000 cubic inches of volume, holds it all.