Peru, Nepal, Alaska, Canada, Russia, Colorado, France, Antarctica—the world's high and wild climbing destinations beckon. Mountaineering trips can range from a hands-in-your-pocket walk up California's Mt Whitney or Australia's Mt Kosciusko to three-month Himalayan odysseys. In the peaks rising from the jungles of Borneo, the wildlife is abundant, the weather is hot and the mountain climbing is nontechnical. Nepal is more of a commitment—the high-altitude climbs require snow and ice skills and time to acclimatize. And Nepal offers Everest the highest, hardest, coldest (and most expensive) mountaineering expedition of them all. In the Himalayas, you'll find an extensive community of mountaineers, while the snowy peaks of Peru are remote, isolated and often devoid of other mountain climbers.
Ads
Wherever you choose to go, mountaineering is not an activity for the faint of heart. Most liability waivers' Assumption of Risk clauses will reveal something like: "I am aware adventure travel such as that I am undertaking involves hazardous activities in remote areas of the world with a risk of illness, injury or death" (quoted from Mountain Travel-Sobek waiver). Before you sign your life away, outfitters will lay bare the dangers inherent in any big alpine climb: headaches, nausea, strain from heavy loads, long days, subzero temperatures, frostbite, fatigue, sleeplessness, danger of avalanches, rock fall, or altitude illness—which could ultimately result in death.
Despite the risks, the intense camaraderie among mountain climbers, combined with the euphoria of reaching a summit, could easily get you so hooked on peak bagging that you'll renounce your old life and quit your job. Then you1ll begin touring the globe in perpetual search of the intoxication we aficionados call mountaineering.
The earliest known alpinist, a Bronze Age man, was found just a few years ago at the foot of a retreating glacier in the mountains along the Austrian-Italian border, his boots lined with straw to keep out the cold. But formal mountaineering as we know it today did not begin until about 200 years ago, in the mountains of Europe. Wearing boots equipped with iron-spiked footbeds for traction on ice, alpine climbers were able to ascend monster peaks in the Alps, such as the Matterhorn, the Grande Jorrasse and Mont Blanc. In the last 50 years, technical advances have been rapid. With lighter, more technical, functional clothing and equipment, the Matterhorn has gone from being a two-day expedition to a three-hour solo climb for a talented climber.
Even experienced climbers will maximize their chances of a safe and successful climb by going with a recognized guide or outfitting company. With major-league mountaineering, there are myriad skills involved in sussing out what the specific hazards are and how to avoid them (not to mention making a killer cup of joe at 18,000 feet).
Developing the judgment to get you to the top of a particular mountain and back in one piece takes many years and many climbs. When choosing an outfitter, make sure the guides have experience climbing the peak you1ve chosen to tackle. They should have an understanding of the area's culture and customs, and access to local resources such as porters and cooks.
For any big alpine climb, you need to be physically (as well as mentally) fit. Mountaineering involves a twisted energy ratio: You begin at the bottom, when the load of food, water and gear is heaviest, with an uphill battle against gravity. You'll need a good reserve of energy to deal with the combination of the weight on your back and the thinning air of altitude.
The best way to get fit for mountain climbing is to go mountain climbing. Hiking up smaller peaks close to home will give you the quad fibers and cardiovascular capacity necessary to get you up bigger mountains.
For a big, multiday climb you should be able to carry 40 pounds for at least eight hours with 3,000 feet of altitude gain and loss‹which could be achieved with a trudge up Mt Whitney, Mt Washington or Mt Rainier.
Altitude sickness (caused by the decreasing oxygen in the air as you head in the direction of the gods) is perhaps the most imminent danger associated with mountaineering. The golden rule is to gain no more than 1,000 feet of altitude per day. Climb high, sleep low, drink lots of water and go slow. If you do not spend enough time acclimatizing, you will likely suffer headaches, nausea, vomiting, shortness of breath, disorientation and impaired judgment the classic symptoms of hypoxia (altitude sickness). In advanced stages, altitude sickness can be fatal. Educate yourself about the risks, symptoms and remedies before heading upwards. Check our travel health risk section as for travelers safety preparation. Some online resources include Travel Health Online (www.tripprep.com) and Travel Medicine (www.travmed.com).
From Pakistan’s mighty Karakoram, which boasts the greatest concentration of glaciers outside the Arctic, to the precipices of Pico Humboldt in Venezuela, creaking ice rivers advance and retreat against staggering backdrops like alpine icebergs, offering the traversing traveler some of the same perils and pleasures the mountaineer finds peering into crevasses and scrambling past massive ice seracs.
In dressing for a trek, like other outdoor pursuits, you’ll want to wear layers of fabrics such as polypropylene, capilene or pile. These fabrics provide good insulation; they are lightweight, wick away perspiration and dry quickly if wet. Wool and wool/synthetics are also suitable for trekking, but stay away from cotton, which absorbs sweat and stays soggy. Start with the base layer followed by a second layer of fleece or down. Finally, if the weather calls for it, add a waterproof outer layer.
Standard trekking gear includes a comfortable pack, supportive, well-broken-in boots, a first-aid kit, a sleeping bag and a tent. Maps, a compass or GPS, sunblock and eyewear are also necessary. For more ambitious treks, especially ones involving some glacier travel, you may also need crampons and an ice axe. Check with your guide or outfitter to determine what is required for the route you’re tackling and how much of the equipment they rent or provide.
Comfortable, supportive, flexible boots are the key ingredient for a successful trek. If your feet are happy, you will be too. In general, trekking boots should be less technical and more flexible than mountaineering boots, and comfortable on long approaches. But you might want boots able to support strap-on crampons. The most important thing about trekking boots is that you get a pair that suits your foot. Do you prefer flexibility and freedom of movement over support? Or do you have ankles that need an extra stiff boot? The second thing to keep in mind is that you should make sure the boots are broken in before you trek. This means taking them on a couple of day trips before you set out on the big trek. The Salomon SM LITE Boot is the consummate go-everywhere boot (http://www.salomon.com/ , 800-225-6850, $180).
If you’re doing a less technical trek and interested in a light hiker that still offers support on uneven ground, try Nike ACG’s Air Wallowa (http://www.nike.com/nikeacg/ , 800-806-6453, $90). This shoe has all the spring and comfort of a running shoe, but offers all the support of a trekking boot. It breaks in easily and remains comfortable even after hours on the trail. The waterproof Nubuck and PU-coated upper provides lightweight breathable protection and the reinforced loops can be attached to gaiters. The sole is made of Vibram’s Trek compound, patterned into a trail running-inspired lug, that grips in wet and dry conditions over varied terrain.
Socks are easy to overlook but they are almost as important as boots. You can’t go wrong with SmartWool. Their socks are extremely comfortable, warm and easy to wash and dry. The Smartwool Expedition Trekking Sock is made for long walks carrying loads. It has a full cushioned sole and elasticized arch support (http://www.smartwool.com/ , 800-555-WOOL, $16.95).
For your body. Starting with the first layer, Hind’s DryLete3 Top (http://www.sierratradingpost.com , $60) is the perfect warm, wicking base layer for trekking. The piece feels like a soft cloud when you pull it on, and it keeps you dry during aerobic activity—which means you won’t freeze when that activity stops. Plus, it stays sweet-smelling for multiple-day use. The top dries quickly, has a high thermal retention and its nylon Lycra blend is supersoft. For intrepid female trekkers, a supportive, wicking sports bra is one of the most crucial items for a happy trek. Polo RLX’s Camo Crossback Sports Bra (http://www.ralphlauren.com/ , 800-653-7656, $35) lined with Coolmax wicks moisture away from where it accumulates during heavy trekking. A contrast stretch mesh back panel provides cooling at the same time as a secure fit. The crossback construction encourages freedom of movement for arms and shoulders.
Next you’ll want a layer that keeps you warm, and here’s your chance to explore the soft-shell revolution. A soft shell is a warm, breathable, water-resistant piece that is not waterproof. The theory is that 90 percent of the time, you don’t need to wear a shell. You can be happy as a clam in what’s basically a souped-up sweater. Soft shells travel well and are light and packable. They’re also good for intown use. Cloudveil Veiled Peak Jacket (www.cloudveil.com, 888-763-5969, $165) is a lightweight soft shell, and super technical. Constructed with Schoeller Dynamic fabric, the jacket performs well in a wide range of climatic conditions. It is breathable enough to wear hiking up steep slopes, while also wind and water resistant. It comes in versions specific for men and women. While considering soft shells, check out Salomon’s Soft Technical Layer (STL) 552 Fully Featured Jacket ($389). This piece performs in 90 percent of all winter sport activities. Also containing Schoeller, the jacket is composed of three layered composites of 4-way stretch woven Cordura®, polyester and Lycra. All this means is it’s very breathable while wind and wetness resistant—it keeps you warm when you need it.
Despite the astounding benefits of soft shells, trekking is one activity where it’s also worth packing a lightweight waterproof breathable jacket. You never know when the Himalayan skies are going to let rip with a rainstorm. Today’s shells are becoming lighter and lighter and it’s less of a weight consideration having one in your bag as backup. The thing about the soft shell resolution is that now you can get away with a lighter shell. You no longer need the $600 super duper shell. All you need is something lightweight, breathable and waterproof. Mountain Hardwear’s Epic Jacket (www.mountainhardwear.com, 800-953-8375, $120) is the perfect partner for a soft shell. The jacket weighs 11 ounces for men and 10 ounces for women and packs into its own welded stretch pocket. It has venting mesh pockets, pit zips for ventilation and stretch panels across the back and elbows for movement. If you want to go even lighter, check out the GoLite Flow Jacket (www.golite.com, 888-546-5483, $159). The Flow is made of EPIC silicone encapsulated fabric, which makes it extremely water resistant and hyper-breathable at the same time. The fabric is also quick drying and windproof—two key ingredients in a trekking jacket. Another option for men and women is Swiss Army’s Anchorage Travel Jacket (http://www.victorinox.com/ , 866-99-swiss, $225), which is best suited for trekking in dry and/or warm countries, or during summer months. It is made of durable, breathable Dupont® Cordura®/Cotton Nylon. The coat has interior and exterior pockets for maps and other documents, a fold-down utility pocket for knives, cell phones, keys and identification and even a fully functional first-aid kit. It is also fully convertible—the sleeves zip off and go in a back stow pouch—turning into an intrepid vest.
Other trekking highlights to consider are White Sierra’s Cropduster Capri Pant (www.whitesierra.com, 800-980-8688, $40), a cotton-nylon quick-dry fabric that is breathable and moves with you, specifically for women who want to trek light and free. If you’ve never considered trekking poles before, now’s the time! They increase trekking efficiency and aid balance. But all poles are not created equal, and the Life-Link Aide-de-Camp (www.life-link.com, 800-443-8620, $100) is one of the best out there, with an ovalized locking mechanism and replaceable Flex Tip for trekking. For multiday treks and expedition travel, the Gregory Makalu Pro Pack (www.gregorypacks.com, 800-477-3420, $340) features a lightweight internal frame and minimalist, super-strong design (from 3,800–4,600 cubic inches). The softer wilderness belt is perfect when wearing climbing harnesses all day, while the rotating shoulder harness makes it easy to use trekking poles. When trekking, opening a can of tuna, jerry-rigging bear-proof food slings, or extracting slivers from your hand are all part of a day’s activities. So why not go all out and pick a tool that does it all? Swiss Army’s SwissChamp XLT ($175) offers 50 features. At less than ten ounces, don’t trade a little weight for being left in a life-threatening lurch.